Friday, 23 October 2015

Is this the death of fashion magazines?

Forgive me if I'm rehashing an old issue here, but as someone who flits between the new fangled nature of digital and the dinosaur that is print I still find it fascinating to chart its ascension and decline. If this sounds like I'm describing it as happening in waves, it's because I think it does. I remember a year ago or so, just as I was beginning to spread my wings in the fashion world [helpfully] you couldn't swing a returns bag in a fashion cupboard without somebody shaking their head and muttering that the end of Editorial was nigh.

What exactly you're supposed to do with that information, I have no idea. After having worked unpaid for the best part of a year I wasn't about to just pick up my packed lunch and leave, was I? Being at the bottom of the ladder, there didn't seem to be any indication of an industry dying- Editors were still claiming outrageous expenses, logistics were still sending urgent couriers to collect dresses from around the corner, and brands were still paying silly money for a half page advert. In any case, I never concerned myself with the the potential fall of an entire industry- no one would have told me anyway! [A friend of mine recently told me something that a wise woman once told her- "If you're at the bottom you should only worry this much, when you've moved up bit you should worry this much more. Only when you're at the top do you need to worry this much." Sage advice, if ever I've heard it.]
A year after the original panic though, here we are: Vogue is still in print, along with a whole host of questionable titles, and the printed word still seems to hold some cache- although the immediacy and instantaneousness that online offers is clearly a big positive, I feel quite cheered to know that, in all likelihood, for the foreseeable future you will be able to curl up with a magazine on the sofa, stock up on your favourites at the airport and continue to enjoy the permanence of glossy pages between your fingers. I don't know about you, but I didn't even have Wi-Fi at home until about 2011, simply for the reason that neither my mum nor I knew how to use t'internet box so perhaps a physical publication gives me a sense of security, in a way.

Just as Carrie Bradshaw, who chases her journalistic dreams till she reaches a mighty $2 a word at Vogue magazine, I believe that, for now, the printed written word still holds more value than those that appear on a screen*. Yes, you might reach double the number of people in a fraction of the time by publishing online but you don't have the weight of a publication behind you- the endorsement of an established magazine that has put its faith in you to enchant, enthral and endear yourself to its readers. Then again, you can write whatever the hell you want, case in point right here, and some might say that's the most precious thing of all.

*I appreciate the irony of writing this in an online blog, largely unseen by anyone and entirely without backing or recommendation. Another perk of self publishing, you can contradict yourself as many times as you like.

Friday, 25 September 2015

5 Trends that Defy Description

1. Handkerchiefs that make you look like Rosie the Riveter* AKA Bandanas


Leandra Medine of Man Repeller
Pandora Sykes of Sunday Times Style
Lucy Williams of Fashion Me Now















The eagle eyed among you may have noticed that, a fair few street stylers and fashion favourites have been sporting a handkerchief. How very quaint, you might say, but these 'kerchiefs aren't for wiping their brows after a strenuous fashion month, these are bandanas and everyone who's anyone [on Instagram] has had them knotted around their necks, tied around their handbag handles and perched on their heads recently.
















2. Trousers that look too small for you AKA Kick Flares



Personally, there's nothing I love more than a kick flare. I happen to think that they are pretty much universally flattering- the flash of bony ankle that I glimpse when I put them on sets my heart aflutter, which makes up for my boyfriend telling me I look like I've donned a small 70s child's trousers. The pitfalls are few and far between though, since the KF goes with any shoe [from trainers to ankle boots, by way of lace up ghillies] and seamlessly transitions from summer to winter, day to night. A smorgasbord of street stylers couldn't have it wrong, now could they?











3. Shoes that look like they belong to a doll AKA Mary Janes


Does anyone remember the Sex and the City episode where Carrie almost wets herself after finding Manolo Blahnik Mary Janes tucked away in Vogue's fashion cupboard? Well, this season they aren't sporting the spindly heel or [necessarily] the associated sex appeal- instead they're flat as pancake and work best with your frilliest of dresses. Ladylike shoes are here to stay apparently, and seem to be a natural progression from the ghillies that we've all had clamped to our feet this year. The fashion pack have been sporting these for a while now, and all the more voraciously since Miu Miu's SS16 collection. Available in two forms, single strap or double, they are the perfect lift for an otherwise casual denim outfit or the cherry on top of a particularly girly one, in an ironic way, of course.

4. Clothes that make you look like an extra from Little House on the Prairie AKA Miu Miu


                   

This particular one is impossible to describe to anyone not completely au fait with fashion or without a burning passion for it. How can you possibly put into words, in any sane way, that We [the fashion We, not the royal We] are now into oversized frills on knee length, and longer, striped dresses. Oh, and did I mention the over abundance of animal skin, coloured leopard print, giant buttons and enormous plaid patterns? I'm willing to throw my hands up, that sounds like a shit show. In reality? D-R-E-A-M-Y. If you're into prim, slightly Pat Butcher vibes with a definite undercurrent of LHotP then this is for you.

5. Jumpers that make you look like Mr Tickle AKA Supersized Sleeves







Who'd have thought we'd all want to look like a Mr Men character, let alone that the Olsen twins would make you want to! Some might say these jumpers are wildly impractical, given their propensity to drag through food, dirt and into people's faces on the tube. Ah, the practicalities of living in the real world. That being said, giant sleeves double up as gloves come Winter, and act as a shield for that chipped mani in the Autumn. As well as designer behemoths like Misha NoNoo and The Row getting on board, high street gems like Zara have taken on the trend with full blown enthusiasm- impossibly long sleeves abound in the recent drop- as well fashion bloggers galore. Resist if you will, but my prediction is you'll give in sooner or later.








*For those of you who don't spend their time googling everything to do with bandanas, Rosie the Riveter was a cultural icon of WWII!
Ph. Courtest of Pinterest and Google!

Thursday, 24 September 2015

Question Time

To whoever you are, you small units of people who somehow find your way to the small happenings and thoughts of this blog [AKA me].. Thank you!

Thank you for boosting my belief in my writing ability each time I log in and find that yet another one of you has bolstered my page views just that little bit. All these times add up and for that I am both grateful and pleased that, hopefully, you enjoy what I'm writing.

So here's something I am putting to you, my sounding boards- what would you like me to write about? What have you always wanted to know about fashion, or the fashion industry, that I can [maybe] shed some light on? I have been thinking for the last day or so about what I could write about next, that wasn't a total cliche of fashion. Something you guys would actually want to read.

If there is anyone out there then, please, don't be shy and pipe up! I'll leave this invite hanging in cyberspace- if I don't hear anything, I'll go back to the drawing board in my efforts to find something new to cover in fashion! 

Wednesday, 23 September 2015

We Need To Talk About.. Uterqüe

So I know there are new labels, sister brands, diffusion lines and pop ups appearing as if from nowhere on a regular basis. I also know that [m]any of you reading this will already have various other outlets to get your fashion fix- and far more reliable sources telling you which new label is the best thing ever. But, in the vain hope that some of you out there are still reading and waiting with baited breath, I will give it a go. 

Uterqüe is the latest addition to the Inditex behemoth responsible for Zara, and my absolute new favourite brand. It's pronounced Oo-ter-kway by the way, for those of you us not au fait with the Latin origins of Spanish words.. For some reason, the diaeresis over the "u" has been a source of consternation for me since discovering the label, in that every time I have gone to tell someone about my fantastic new find (although it was actually created in 2008, so not so new) I find myself mumbling the name in a sort of sing song-y way in a bid to avoid having to pronounce it. Now that that's been cleared up though, we can get to the fashion. 

Uterqüe's USP is that they hover somewhere between designer labels and fast fashion. It's not so concerned with producing catwalk copies within mere moments of the original creation being aired to the world. No, Uterqüe's strength lies in creating classically beautiful clothes and accessories in sumptuous, rich fabrics that will stand the test of time. Their nappa leather burgundy trousers are a thing of beauty and would be a wonderful, if not the most frugal, purchase. Similarly, the robe style fringed dress is as dreamy as it sounds- more subtle than typical fringed numbers, but with more oomph than a classic LBD. I've had my eye on it for a while, but alas moved too slowly and now it's only available in S. A further nosey of the A/W collection reveals a positively lust inducing array of lambskin coats and gilets; they are absolutely to die for, but also absolutely out of my price range. Sadly, these will have to do as moodboard inspiration rather than the real thing.

Something worth noting, though, is that their accessories price points rival that of J. Crew, and personally, I much prefer the designs of Uterqüe- which linger in the minimal realm of Céline in terms of the luxuriously sleek lines of their bags and shoes. Before you get too up in arms over the price and ridiculousness of fashion, there are also some very reasonable finds. A Chloé-esque silk georgette shirt with fluted sleeves springs to mind and is[relatively] affordable at £85. Admittedly, it's not mega cheap, but you'd struggle to find the same shirt with the same amount of detailing [the most delicate white silk fringing runs down the length of it] for less anywhere else on the high street.

As if you needed any more encouragement, they have also recruited the effortlessly stylish Caroline de Maigret as the new face of the label. The Parisian is a veritable force of nature in the style-stakes, and her styling elevates this relatively unknown brand [a quick Google search yielded no English press about Caroline de Maigret and the brand] to new heights. So go forth- explore the site and get lost for a few minutes hours in the tailoring, the cosiness, the sheer understated elegance of Uterqüe. A total gem of a find on the high street! 

Tuesday, 22 September 2015

Backstage at Giles SS16

I have exciting news to report. Not the usual level of excitement, like getting free shampoo from the beauty cupboard clear out. No, I mean real news. I'm freelancing at The Sun for a few weeks over the fashion week period, and today I was sent on an assignment that actually has something to do with fashion. Again, I don't mean buying safety pins from John Lewis for the stylist's prop kit. I mean.. I was sent backstage at the Giles SS16 show to get all the behind-the-scenes pictures of the models getting ready for their moment in the spotlight. 

I wasn't really there in a fashion capacity, more beauty as the clothes were tightly off limits until showtime. Instead, I was there for the hair and make up prep. The models came in fresh from a rehearsal, some still sporting make up from a previous show, and were immediately swamped by a huge team of maestros from Toni & Guy. Prior to this all the other members of the press and I had been waiting around for 25 minutes or so, strangely quiet [and it being my first time] I was wondering what all the fuss was about. Within 30 seconds of the models appearing all hell broke loose; it suddenly felt as if there were twice the number of people in the room, there was barely space to take snaps with an iPhone. 

I managed to get a few before I had to dash off though. Apologies for the amateur photography, I only had an iPhone and a shaky hand!

Where it all begins, with a plethora of MAC beauty products

The Brit beauty, Edie Campbell arrives for hair & make up

Georgia May Jagger being prepped for make up
[The swarm of professional photographers prevented me from getting any closer!]

Backstage went from 0 to 60 in under a minute

Absolute supers Alek Wek and Erin O'Connor having a pre-show catch up
[I am secretly quite pleased with this quiet moment that I captured]

The models promptly took their seats in order and a row of H&MU artists did their magic

The iconic Eva Herzigova arrives

The original Wonder [Bra] Woman having her make up expertly applied

Lily Donaldson arrived sporting, bizarrely, a black pencilled on moustache which was promptly wiped off
[This one's a personal fave as I've been following Lily Donaldson's modelling since we were both teenagers]

Sadly I had to dash off before the show, so I only got to see the finished article via instagram- but each and every model looked gorgeous, of course. My first foray into the world of backstage at LFW was really quite exciting [after all the waiting around] and something I hope to have the opportunity to do again!

Sunday, 20 September 2015

FW15 Trend: 70s Suede

This season, AW15 for those of us living in real time, suede is going to be big. In fact, not just big but BIG. It goes hand in hand with another huge trend coming our way, the 70s, which means you get 2 hits for the price of 1. I'm excited to finally have an accessible trend, at an accessible price point, to be able to get in on. I mean, as much as facial jewellery and black lipstick looked great at Givenchy and Giles it's hardly a user friendly look.

Suede on the other hand.. Suede is something I can definitely get on board with. As long as you stay away from the super cheap pieces you're onto a winner, and the high street is so good for this trend you don't even need the runway.

Zara £49.99
I love this dress. So simple but the deep burgundy colour kicks it up a notch- wear with bare arms and legs to a party at night now, and with a black poloneck and tights for day in the winter. Winner in my book.

ASOS £85
This is a slightly different take on suede, not so hand-in-hand with the 70s but on trend nonetheless. The pinafore front means you can dress it down with a tee at weekends, or up with a pussybow shirt for the week.
Topshop £75
A classic button down a-line skirt in butter soft suede. What more could you want? Oh yea, it also comes in dreamy pastel green. Don't be put off by the colour, it'll go with tan, black and navy- all the staples of a winter wardrobe.

New Look £99.99
The tan suede car coat, an instant classic and screams on trend yet not a slave to fashion. This has been featured in every magazine from Stylist to Elle- a great coat for an excellent price point. Oh, and it comes in black too! 

If you're not 100% sold on the practicalities of a suede studded wardrobe, maybe consider dipping a toe in via accessories? A suede bag in any form looks mega luxe and needn't be a massive investment. Just remember to stay clear of the rain! 

Saturday, 19 September 2015

The Art of Saying No

People are funny creatures, people hate being told no and most importantly, people hate being told no in the wrong way. I once made the mistake of just telling someone I couldn't go to their birthday- will I be invited again next year? Won't be making that mistake again.

Personally, I don't think these rules should apply, or have any place, in the professional world because it's your prerogative to say no [when it's not part of your job description], especially if it's an extracurricular activity that you are there to "enjoy"- read, LFW. Everyone goes, everyone hates it, everyone has to pretend they love it. Granted, there are some exceptions, like LFW, where you just have to pull your socks up and get on with it; but by and large, my opinion on "out of hours" work events is pretty cut and dry.

There may be a knack to getting the negative delivery just right but, in general, you are your own boss as a freelancer and only you can set your boundaries. It's taken me quite a while to realise this- for a long time I would say yes to anything any Fashion Assistant, Fashion Director or Shopping Editor asked me to do. Like the time I assisted on an all-day shoot on a Saturday, in the middle of November during a tube strike for no money because the FA called on Friday night in a panic and told me that I'd be given clothes and gift cards instead of money. Needless to say, none of that materialised- lesson learnt.

My boyfriend is continuously reminding me that, as a freelancer, I don't really have any loyalties to anyone and should always do what works best and is most beneficial to me- that's what the people employing me are doing! 'This applies to occasions when booked days working for a company have been cut unexpectedly and at short notice, and I have not kicked up a fuss, or said one word in fact, because I fear being labelled "difficult". I think this is the thing that gets most people- we are all afraid to exercise our right to say no because we don't want to be seen as unwilling to help or, God forbid, as lazy. We must always remember that it's not unwillingness or laziness that makes us want to say no, but a whole host of other reasons most commonly referred to collectively as.. Life. Because you don't want to miss a weekend lie-in with your partner, because you don't want to skip having dinner with an old friend, because you have a value and that isn't always reflected in what you are asked to do- so you say no, and that is ok.

I have always been honest, and professional integrity is important- I've turned down many last minute things to honour pre-arranged commitments. Like the time I didn't assist on a GQ cover shoot with Idris Elba because it clashed with my last day of work experience at Vogue, or the time I didn't say yes to helping a Vogue FA, now a very successful Fashion Editor, on a shoot because I was on a placement at Net-A-Porter and couldn't get the time off last minute. I don't know if saying no to those things has harmed my career, I'd like to think not, but if I dwell on it for too long I only torture myself. I like to think that being true to your word and commitment is more important, in the long run, than flaking out and taking a better offer if it comes along. After all, isn't the moral of the story that the grass isn't necessarily greener?

Friday, 18 September 2015

... And Alienate Them [AKA: Embarrassing Stories from the Front line of Fashion]

As promised, this post will deal with alienating colleagues. Not, I must stress, something that I aim to do but may happen as a consequence of my unwillingness to attend any and all events associated with work-

Once, during an internship at InStyle, I found myself walking behind one of the other interns from the tube station to the office. Instead of catching up with her and having a casual chat for 3-4 minutes or, and this is better than what I actually did, hanging back until there was a reasonable distance between us so as to avoid bumping into each other at the lifts; I continued to walk at a steady pace behind her but made no move to either catch up or slow down. And this was someone I was actually getting along with. (I realise this makes me seem completely mental.) 

Another time, I wore an impossibly impractical pair of shows to a work experience placement only to be hobbling before I'd even got to the office. I had to make an emergency call to the Junior Editor to explain the situation, go to L.K. Bennett* to buy a new pair of shoes [!!!] before turning up more than 30minutes late, being screamed at by the Fashion Editor and promptly sent home. (Needless to say, for the purposes of avoiding repercussions even almost 6 years later the magazine shall rename nameless..)

I was interning at a well known men's publication in a private office with the Style Editor and the Associate Editor. I know what you're thinking, great opportunity to make an impression and make some contacts- just wait. I'd been asked to work on one of the magazine's biggest yearly features and was waiting to speak with the AE about it. Little did I know, I would be waiting a while as the AE was taking their daily nap in the adjoining office- locking the door and crawling under the desk while the inhabitants were out on lunch. (I know. Honestly, too good for me to make up)

Finally, while working a 6 month placement at a well known international publication I managed to incur the wrath of the Deputy Editor. During a particularly busy period I felt like I was being pulled in a million different directions, so when, whilst juggling a phone call with an irate PR and packing up an urgent return, the DE came into the cupboard and asked if we had an tissue paper to wrap a present I turned around in my chair to check we had some in, handed her 2 pieces and continued with my conversation. It was only when I was taken into a meeting with the Senior Fashion Editor a few hours later that I "realised" my crime. I was expected to stand up when she came in, and to put the phone down so she could have my undivided attention. DE commented that I was usually so polite, so she couldn't understand my rudeness. The conversation concluded with SFE telling me I should make sure I behave appropriately when in her Holiness' company. (Ok, she didn't refer to her as "her Holiness", that was just me.)

So what lessons have we learned from these stories?

1) Plan your route to work to avoid potential conversations
2) Always wear sensible shoes
3) Don't interrupt nap time- it's important for their cognitive development
4) Remember to stand up, bow and only speak when spoken to in the presence of Editors

Rules to live by!


*Nothing against L.K. Bennett, but they were SO expensive

How to Lose Colleagues.. [Part 1]

This post is inspired by the 2001 memoir by Toby Young, How to Lose Friends and Alienate People, and applies to all the lowly interns, long suffering assistants and hardened freelancers out there who endure complicated and painfully awkward relationships with their colleagues and employers. No? Just me then.

I don't know why, as someone who is well versed in constantly meeting new people and having to be polite to a fault (even when it's taking all your inner strength to stop you rolling your eyes and emitting a huge sigh), I find it virtually impossible to attend events or even have lunch without inducing a mild panic. Honestly, I would rather eat lunch alone and pretend to be scrolling through something really interesting on my phone than have a "get-to-know-you" lunch with someone at work. The same also applies to work drinks, networking events and even birthday gatherings. You know the ones, where you have to make small talk in order to get a slice of cake?

I suppose this post, and my life, differs to Young's in that he was seeking out a relationship with his colleagues whereas I am actively avoiding one. My boyfriend thinks it's bizarre that I never attend work related events, but I must say I find it equally weird that he considers people he works with on a par with his actual friends.. Maybe it's because, often, in fashion we are all competing against each other. It's not a straight forward industry, with plentiful secure jobs and fixed relationships. More often that not, you're end up being quite guarded as you're never sure where your next job is coming from. I've lost count of the number of times someone's mentioned the name of a stylist and then I've followed that contact up- it's all fair game, but doing that has made me realise that the same might be done to me.

Part II deals with alienating the very same colleagues you work so hard to avoid..

NB: I'm not sure if it makes it better or worse that I'm also overcome by this feeling in my own personal social interactions. I get the same wave of fear when meeting new people at birthdays and house-warmings, which turns me into some kind of barnacle- clinging to the person I've gone with in a desperate bid to avoid having to mingle with strangers.

Thursday, 20 August 2015

For Hire: Freelance Fashion Assistant! Will work for.. Just about anything!

You know what I think the biggest barrier to freelancing is? Other than a fear of the unknown, anxiety over meeting new people and the inability to predict when your next pay check will land in your account. These things are surmountable, you can learn to embrace the unknown and see it is as a gift rather than a curse when you're avoiding rush hour and not using up a day's holiday to wait at home for the Gas man [my day today]. No, it's the gargantuan effort it takes to be motivated. Actually, scrap that- to self motivate. Most people with an office base will have somewhere they need to be every day at a certain time, a particular routine that they will stick to most days and at least a handful of colleagues to complain about work to.

Not so if you're a freelancer. We have to seem happy, motivated, enthusiastic and indefatigable at all times- just in case a potential employer is in the vicinity, spots a peppier version of you and you lose out on the most lucrative contract of your life. Ok, that last part is highly unlikely but it's true that it's such a pressure to be bright, happy and willing to do just about anything that comes your way, and all with a smile on your face. I used to cheerfully say, "beggars can't be choosers!" when asked to do something where my first reaction was to run away. Now, I feel more philosophical about things [or maybe I'm growing some balls, as my dad helpfully put it]. I don't think you do have to do anything and everything or bend over backwards for other people- or just be grateful for the work you're given. No, all you have to do is put yourself out there and try.

So, with that in mind I [metaphorically] got off my behind and tried. I sent out emails to as many stylists as I could- some replied and a lot didn't, but that's ok because at least I'm making progress. I'm part of the way to discovering who, and what, I want to be in 5 years time and that's exciting, and scary!

Next time, something more uplifting- depending on how my interviews go. Fingers crossed!

Wednesday, 19 August 2015

The curse of being 25

I turned 25 a couple of months ago- no big deal, right? What's one more year. Apparently, 25 is a big one. I have noted that it's the last point at which you can buy a 16-25 rail card, the exact moment you're no longer part of the much coveted 18-24 demographic and the age at which you are now too old to enter the Vogue Talent Contest. Either talent runs dry at 24 or Vogue presumes that a grown person of 25 should be equipped to make their own success by this stage in life. Now, the contest may not seem like a big deal to most, but I have entered this in the past and when I was unsuccessful I thought to myself, "there's always next year." Only now there isn't. 25, it seems, is the point of no return.

Helpfully, it's also the age at which my parents started making remarks about my employability in the fashion industry. I am an adult now, fully capable of paying for full price tube fare- no 30% discount needed. Which, for most of my peers is true but, sadly, for me is not. Of course, I haven't told them that. I remain defiant in the face of a quarter of a century on this planet, but deep down maybe I am worried too. I'm wondering when I should reassess what I'm doing, when I should start actually thinking about my [lack of] pension and where I'm going to live when it is beyond inappropriate to still be living with my mum..

I'm lucky in many ways, lucky to have been born and raised in London so I have a family home to always be able to return to- rent free, I may add- and fortunate that I met a lovely man who is willing to support me in any way I should need it. The only problem is that I don't want to need it. I want to channel serious Beyonce vibes and not have to worry that in old age, I will have a lot of shoes but no food in my fridge that isn't from the reduced section.

I want to still feel as if everything is possible, to believe that the next big thing for me is just around the corner- the same way I did when I was fresh out of University and the sky was the limit. I still feel that way, but occasionally I meet another freelancer who is younger, seemingly more successful and way more optimistic than me- and then I feel like the crypt-keeper.

For the record, what's the cut off point for getting a piercing? I laughed in the face of 25 and got my lucky number 13th ear piercing. My ears are becoming quite the work of art, and with about £300 worth of metal in them perhaps I can rest assured that I could always sell that to make some quick cash?!